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Amsterdam As well as being one of the world's top tourist destinations, Amsterdam is a city that has managed to preserve its greatest natural and manmade attractions as well as staying at the forefront of modern Europe. Amsterdam's origins delve back deep into the thirteenth century when a small settlement sprung up around the 'dam' on the Amstel River that gave the city its name.

Castricum A 25-minute train journey from Centraal Station, approximately 40km (25 miles) north of Amsterdam, this coastal town is wonderful for getting away from it all. Bikes are available for hire, costing ˆ6 per day, at the train station. Maps can be obtained from the station restaurant, before cycling through beautiful woodlands and meadows to reach the dunes.

Marken and Volendam Two of the region’s prime tourist attractions, these pretty fishing villages are easily accessible from Amsterdam. Marken is situated on an island, joined to the mainland by a bridge, while Volendam is situated on the banks of the IJsselmeer, both approximately 15km (nine miles) north of the city. The locations both have plenty of atmosphere – there are lots of wooden houses and many of the locals still wear traditional dress. Visitors can wander through streets of quaint old houses, dress up in traditional costume and learn how to buy and sell fish at the Volendam fish auction. The outing can be extended into a full-day tour, by stopping off for a fresh fish lunch and visiting the Volendams Museum, where one old sailor’s collection of over a million cigar bands is on display. Volendam offers a variety of watersports, including excellent windsurfing. Transport is through an organised coach tour or the excellent bus service from Centraal Station.

Tulips Between the last week in March and the last week in May, is the best time to head for the 28 hectares (69 acres) of the Keukenhof Gardens.Trains run from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station to Leiden, from where a shuttle bus connects to Keukenhof. Eight kilometres (five miles) north of Keukenhof is Haarlem, where the Frans Roozen Nurseries and Tulip Show, can be visited from late March to late May, daily 0800–1930; entrance is free. Haarlem town centre is a beautiful mixture of 16th- and 17th-century buildings, with two fine museums. The Frans Hals Museum, Heiligland 62, is home to paintings by the artist of the same name, while St Bavokerk Cathedral, contains a 5000-pipe organ, which Mozart is reputed to have played. Regular trains from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station run to Haarlem.

Rotterdam Holland’s second largest city is often neglected by tourists but has a lot to offer. It might be most renowned as the home to Europe’s largest port and it is, to some extent, blighted by the mass of industrial infrastructure that goes with this. Nevertheless, Europoort is an attraction in itself, with daily boat tours of the massive port. Rotterdam has a buzz and character, which was further enhanced by its recent stint as European City of Culture. Situated 45km (28 miles) southerly to Amsterdam and neighbouring The Hague, this city boasts a number of first-rate museums, an impressively modern city centre and plenty of shopping opportunities. The city’s nightlife is also legendary, with a more cutting edge and raffish feel than touristy Amsterdam. In addition to this, the red-light districts of Rotterdam have a harder edge that is a million miles away from the much tamer tourist venues in Amsterdam. Over the last few decades, the city has boldly let itself become a testing ground for the avant-garde ideas of some of the world’s more esoteric architects, with a variety of stunning and challenging buildings dotted around the city. Regular trains run to Rotterdam from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station.

Rijksmuseum The largest and most popular museum in the Netherlands was opened in 1885 and has grown steadily ever since. Today, it includes paintings dating from the 15th century up until 1850, as well as some quite stunning pieces of furniture. Visitors with a limited amount of time should head straight for the Dutch Masters on the first floor, where the star painting, Rembrandt’s Nightwatch, hangs alongside several Vermeers and Van Hals. A pamphlet describes all of the museum’s highlights and there are audio tours available. Although part of the Rijksmuseum and included in the price of the museum ticket, the South Wing has its own entrance, at Hobbemastraat 19. Exhibits include 18th- and 19th-century paintings, Oriental objets d’art and a textile and costume section.

Anne Frankhuis (Anne Frank House) The queues can be horrendous at the small but very popular Anne Frank House, which annually attracts roughly half a million people. It is the historic home where Anne Frank, her family and four other Jewish people hid from the occupying Germans during World War II, after fleeing their native Germany. Finally caught by the Nazis, after two years in hiding, they were taken off to concentration camps, where Anne died. However, her father survived and published her diary, which has been translated into 50 languages.

Van Gogh Museum This spacious museum houses a permanent display of 200 paintings and 500 drawings by Van Gogh, as well as works by Toulouse-Lautrec and Gauguin. A new wing is being used to display temporary exhibitions.

Sub-Culture Museums Amsterdam is infamous for its Sex Museum but it also boasts the dubious charms of the Hash Museum and the Torture Museum. The extremely tacky Sex Museum, the only one in Europe, is full of erotica – objets d’art, photos, prints, paintings and videos – dating from the Roman era to about 1960, although somehow manages to be totally devoid of eroticism. The Hash Museum is of interest to those visitors who come to Amsterdam in search of coffee shops and would like to learn a little more about the hallowed weed, while the Torture Museum caters for another sub-group of society altogether. Nevertheless, it is tongue-in-cheek enough to be of interest to all. The three museums are all within walking distance in the city centre.

Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) The Royal Palace, designed by Jacob van Campen, was built in 1648, as Amsterdam’s city hall. When King Louis Napoleon arrived in Amsterdam, in 1808, he had the city hall turned into a palace. The large collection of Empire-style furniture, chandeliers and clocks date from this period. Although the palace is still the official royal residence, the royal family lives in The Hague. However, Queen Beatrix does host official functions here.

NEMO Museum The funky new NEMO Museum is an unmistakable sight on the banks of the IJ. Just a short stroll away from Centraal Station is this museum, which attempts to defy the crusty image of some traditional museums by offering plenty of hands-on exhibits to stimulate young minds and keep them occupied, as well as provide more information on science and technology for older visitors. This bright, relaxed venue is a good antidote to Amsterdam’s other, perhaps more stuffy museums, especially for younger visitors.

Vondelpark Named after a famous Dutch poet, the Vondelpark is known as the ‘green lung’ of Amsterdam. It contains 49 hectares (120 acres) of ponds, gardens, lakes, playgrounds, cafes and a bandstand. During summer, there are regular free concerts. At times, palm readers and buskers – African drummers, classical quartets and jazz singers – provide entertainment. Just a short walk from the Leidseplein, the Vondelpark is an ideal place for visitors to get away from it all.

Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) Despite its name, the building of the original church that stood on this site was started in 1408, as the congregation had outgrown the Oude Kerk (Old Church). The present structure dates to the 17th century, the previous wooden church having been badly damaged by fire. One of the most interesting pieces inside the church is the pulpit. Rising to a height of more than 10m (33ft), it took sculptor Albert Jansz Vinckenbrinck almost 20 years (1645–1664) to create. A close look at the carved ‘rope’ of the handrail will reveal mischievous angels sliding down it. Located next door to the Royal Palace, on the Dam, the Nieuwe Kerk has been used for the inauguration of Dutch monarchs since 1815 – Queen Beatrix was crowned here in 1980. The church is also renowned for excellent exhibitions and it is rated as one of top three exhibition locations in the Netherlands.

Hortus Botanicus The very pretty Hortus Botanicus is home to more than 800 plants from all over the world. It is also one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world, established as a ‘Hortus Medicus’ herb garden in 1638. The garden became an ornamental garden, displaying foreign plants brought back by the East India Company, from as far afield as South Africa, India, Indonesia, Australia and Japan. Conducted tours take place on Sunday at 1300 and last for 60–90 minutes.

Roemer Visscherstraat Also known as United Europe, or Seven Countries Houses, the extraordinary street, Roemer Visscherstraat, was built in 1894, by architect Tjeerd Kuipers, with the intention of focusing on the history of European architecture. Lying between the Vondelpark and Leidseplein, numbers 20 to 30a of this street provide a one-minute excursion through seven European cities. Number 20, with its Gothic windows, is based on romantic German architecture. Number 22 is a miniature French Loire chateau, while 24 is a Moorish masterpiece reminiscent of Granada’s Alhambra. There is an Italian palazzo at number 26, next door to which, with its onion-shaped dome, is a house reminiscent of a Russian cathedral. Number 30 is a Renaissance-style Dutch house, while 30a is an English cottage.

Houseboat Museum Living on a houseboat sounds like an alluring way of life and it is increasingly popular in the Amsterdam area. This modest museum, reputed to be the only one of its kind in the world, attempts to delve into this unique way of life, answering questions about what it is like to live on a boat in this historic city. The boat is much as it would be as a house – with a living room, shower, toilet and bedroom – and is a far better way of scouring a houseboat that poking through the windows of a real one, as many curious tourists cannot help themselves doing.

Heineken Experience Voted ‘Best Amsterdam Visitor Attraction’ in 2001, the Heineken Experience is a self-guided, multimedia delve into the workings of the world’s largest beer exporter. There is plenty of information on the company’s rich history and also the ‘Bottle Ride’, where visitors get to feel what it is like to be a beer bottle during the production process. At the end of the tour, there is, of course, the chance to sample the hallowed brew.

Passes The Amsterdam Pass offers tourists the use of public transport (tram, bus and underground), free admission to 26 museums, a voucher booklet for 25% discount on several attractions and restaurants, and a full-colour pass guide. Attractions offering free entrance to Amsterdam Pass holders include the Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum, Stedelijk Museum, Rembrandthuis, Amsterdams Historisch Museum and Hortus Botanicus. Other free benefits include a cup of coffee at Restaurant La Place, an Amsterdam city map, five postcards at Cafe Ristretto and a free city canal tour. The pass also includes a free guided tour of the Amsterdam Diamond Group and admission to the Holland Casino.

Shopping The main shopping areas are Leidsestraat, between the Leidseplein and Spui, Kalverstraat and Nieuwendijk, leading from the Munt Tower via the Dam to near Centraal Station. Pedestrianised Leidsestraat, which – with its fashion boutiques, large fashion store (Metz & Co), souvenir shops and newsagents – is Amsterdam’s answer to Oxford Street and the perfect place for tourists to combine a spot of shopping with canal views and cafe stops. At the northern end of Leidsestraat is Singel, the floating flower market. Kalverstraat offers a combination of classy department stores, fashion boutiques and the luxurious shopping centre of Kalvertoren, while Nieuwendijk, one of Amsterdam’s oldest shopping streets, is home to moderately priced fashion, shoe and CD stores.

Nightlife Amsterdam is one of Europe’s top party cities. At night, it is like a human zoo, with all sorts of weird and wonderful activities on offer. The city can be the venue for a romantic stroll, with the lights of the bridges and old houses reflected in the canals, or a night spent bar hopping from buzzing bar to buzzing bar, before partying until dawn in one of Europe’s top clubs. It could even be a nefarious evening, dipping into the dirty underbelly of a city with few inhibitions. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of bars dotted around Amsterdam and it can be just as pleasant to idle away a few hours in a neighbourhood bar as it is to spend the night in one of the trendier venues in the centre of the city. If, however, you are interested in listening to live bands and dancing the night away, then you should head for the Rembrantsplein-Leidseplein area. If you want seedy, then head for Walletjes and indulge. Over the last few years, the trend in Amsterdam has been away from smoky pubs towards ‘grand cafes’, a mixture of bar and cafe, where it is equally as acceptable to explore the excellent range of Dutch beers as it is to flick through a newspaper over a cafe latte. Amsterdam’s clubs usually open at 1000 and, by law, must close promptly at 0400 during the week and 0500 at the weekend. The best nights to go out tend to be Thursday and Saturday. The mainstream clubs prefer a smart-casual dress, with no trainers or jeans. Anything goes at the funkier, more cutting edge venues. Only those over 18 years are allowed to purchase alcohol in bars and clubs and drinks cost in the region of 5 eur.

Red Light District This area is famous for its window prostitution, which is legal in Holland. The windows are illuminated by red lights, hence the name. Though you might suspect otherwise this section of town isn't really that seedy, and it's a common sight to see a busload of tourists take an organized tour of the district. Besides the windows the area sports various 'erotic' bars and theaters. Reguliersdwarsstraat The Reguliersdwarsstraat is definitely the hippest street in Amsterdam, as far as nightlife is concerned. The street is a mixture of upmarket gay bars, restaurants serving expensive French cuisine, and assorted night clubs catering to a slightly older crowd of media buffs, businessmen and local celebrities. Rembrandtplein This is the major 'entertainment' area for rowdy Amsterdammers and out-of-towners. Bars chock-a-block with people singing along to Dutch folk songs at the top of their voices, and a few large disco's with heavy security at the door. Because all bars and disco's close at the same moment, sometimes things get out of hand a bit. Strangely enough the square is surrounded by major gay spots like the iT, and just off the square is the Halvemaansteeg, a small street packed with gay bars. No problems here, so maybe Amsterdam really is a tolerant city. Also nearby is Reguliersdwarsstraat, currently the hippest nightlife street of Amsterdam.

Casinos Two places in which to win or lose money are Holland Casino Amsterdam, Max Euweplein 62, open daily 1330–0300 (last entry at 0200), and Holland Casino Schiphol Airport, in Terminal West at Schiphol Airport, open daily 0600–1930. Smart attire is requisite and only those over 18 years are admitted – passports are required.

Clubs Old dames Paradiso, Weteringschans 6–8, and Melkweg, Lijnbaansgracht 234, seem like they have been around forever and can look a little tired. They might not always get the big contemporary names anymore – you are more likely to see the Stereo MCs than Sasha – but they are both a good bet at weekends for an unpretentious and fun night out. Escape, Rembrandtplein 11, is a massive venue that can hold up to 2000 revellers. Its Saturday ‘Chemistry’ night is a Dutch institution, attracting some big name international DJs, although the queues to get in can be a nightmare. A more intimate club venue is Sinners in Heaven, Wagenstraat 3–7, with a trendier and older crowd than many of the city’s larger, more mainstream clubs. Newcomer Panama, Oostelijke Handelskade 4, also caters for an older crowd in the up-and-coming Zeeburg warehouse district. More, Rozengracht 133, is an exclusive club by the people behind the Supper Club restaurant, with the same chic feel and smattering of beautiful people.

Live music Jazz has always been popular in Amsterdam. Many of the jazz greats have lived in the city, including Chet Baker, who died here. Head for Bourbon Street Jazz and Blues Club, Leidsekruisstraat 6–8, or the main jazz venue of Bimhuis, Oude Schans 73–77, in the historic centre, where the Dutch Jazz Orchestra plays on Wednesday and musicians from all over Europe perform on the other days of the week. Paradiso, Weteringschans 6–8, and Melkweg, Lijnbaansgracht 234, both often have rock gigs and sets by alternative acts.

Clubs Bars De Waag, Nieumarkt, is a trendy bar in the red-light district, which also stages cultural performances and exhibitions. Whisky lovers should head for De Stil, Spuistraat 326, which boasts over 150 single malt whiskies. The owners are friendly and will coach whisky virgins through the first stages of discovering whisky unaided by cola or water as a mixer. Meanwhile, beer aficionados should make a beeline for De Wildman, Nieuwezijds Kolk 3, which has an array of over 200 bottled beers from all over Europe. Satellite Sports Cafe, Leidseplein 11, is tacky and touristy but a great venue for those missing their football and rugby. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal is the currently the most hip area in the city for bar/clubs. Seymour Lounge, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 200, is a funky place with a bizarre fish tank full of bricks behind the bar, where live DJs entertain Amsterdam’s party set before they move on the clubs. Just across the road, at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 169, is the ultra trendy NL Lounge, with its cutting-edge sounds, discerning crowd and nightmare bouncers – dress to impress. The gay and lesbian scene thrives in Amsterdam, with Reguliersdwarsstraat one of the more cutting edge nightlife areas, with April, at Reguliersdwarsstraat 37, and Soho, Reguliersdwarsstraat 36, two of the most popular venues.

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