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Mexico Almost 500 years on, the impact of Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes' arrival on Mexico's shores can be seen in the tall, ornate churches that crown the hillsides and plazas of Mexico's cities and the whitewashed walls of haciendas. But traces of earlier inhabitants remain in the remarkable temples and pyramids at Palenque and Teotihuacan, and in the traditions of dozens of indigenous cultures.

COBO SAN LUKAS                                                    Cabo rocks Paddle into paradise in sunny Cabo San Lucas. Here at the very tip of Mexico's Baja Peninsula, dramatic rock formations and alluring beaches beckon around every bend. A sightseeing favourite is the famous arch at Land's End, where the calm, clear Sea of Cortez meets the hearty Pacific. You can also share the waters with whales and marlin, tee off on championship fairways, or dance the night away. For active holidayers, Cabo rocks.

Los Cabos New all-inclusive resorts soak up sea views along the corridor between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, known together as Los Cabos (the capes). The contemporary Westin Regina is one of the most architecturally striking. Los Cabos perfectly suits those looking for relaxation and outdoor sports, rather than cultural immersion in Old Mexico.

Sand, sun, and … ships Step out of your hotel onto a perfect Cabo beach (and hope that cruise ships aren't blocking your view). If you're not the type to sit idly, Cabo offers unlimited ways to actively enjoy the scenery—from horseback riding to kayaking isolated bays to mountain biking in Baja's arid desert. Just grab a paddle or saddle and you're on your way.

Whale of a time Baja's gray whales are so gentle they'll come right up to your boat and let you touch them. Every winter, female gray whales calve in protected bays and lagoons on the Pacific Coast of southern Baja. An all-day excursion from Cabo, which usually involves a short flight, will be the highlight of your stay. But even if you stay put, you can see whales spouting just offshore.

Tee for two With stunning sea and mountain views from every hole—not to mention perfect year-round weather—it's no surprise that Los Cabos is Mexico's leading destination for golfers. Five championship courses will tempt you to show off your swing. When the scenery is so magnificent, keeping your eye on the ball isn't easy.

Float plane All that kayaking and golfing got you worn out? Lather up with sunscreen and float away the afternoon. Pure relaxation means never having to leave your Cabo hotel. But if you do feel the urge for someplace more "real," take a drive to Todos Santos, an artists' colony an hour away. Galleries and green hillsides make this picturesque village a gem.

Cast away Game for big fish? You might get to pose with a marlin, but don't expect to take one home. Sportfishing is extremely popular in Cabo, and catch-and-release practices are encouraged to ensure there'll be big ones for the next time you're casting about. Hire a luxury charter in the Cabo San Lucas marina.

Midnight at the oasis As evening cools this desert oasis, the bar scene heats up. Cantina lights and music signal the advent of nightly parties, in casual mode rather than disco-flashy. Cabo San Lucas enjoys a reputation as a singles magnet, while San Jose del Cabo generally attracts a quieter clientele. You'll find plenty of space and time for all inclinations here at Land's End.

ACAPULCO                                       Acapulco plunge Timing the surf in this narrow cove is crucial to the clavadistas, Acapulco's famous cliff divers. At night the swan divers fling themselves off the 135-foot cliff by the light of flaming torches. You too can dive into magnifico Acapulco: Its curvaceous bay, golden beaches and romantic hills are just a short plunge away.

Bay watch High-rises can't diminish the beautiful half-moon curve of Acapulco Bay. Mexico has spent enormous sums to spruce up Acapulco, the country's first resort destination and keep it competitive with other coastal hotspots. Gleaming new hotels, cleaner streets and a famously frenetic disco scene attract not only foreign but affluent Mexican tourists.

Old Acapulco You'll be charmed by the slower pace of life in Acapulco's historic centre. The tree-shaded main plaza, or zocalo, is a favourite with local families; watch the evening festivities unfold as you dine at a sidewalk table. Presiding over the plaza is the unusual onion-domed cathedral. Shop at the nearby artisans market for traditional Mexican crafts.

Resort retail Duty-free luxury items may top the shopping lists of most visitors to this island resort, but across Laguna Nichupte lies a more traditional Cancun—one where open-air markets still proffer authentic Mexican handicrafts. In El Centro, Cancun City's downtown area, hand-woven textiles and leather goods fill the stalls, along with silver jewellery and familiar Mexican curios.

Romantic hills Splurge for a luxury hotel in the Las Brisas Hills and you'll get your own private cliff-hugging casita and pool. Hollywood jet-setters loved Acapulco in the 1940s and 50s and their hideaway of choice was romantic Las Brisas. Now the hills are alive again with the sound of celebrity voices—and the jeeps that deliver room service.

Playa play You can easily turn your back on the city and spend carefree days on the playa (beach). The calm water of Acapulco Bay, while not always clean enough for swimming, is perfect for parasailing or zipping around on personal watercraft. Palm trees and thatched-roof cafes appease sun-shunners and green Papagayo Park offers mucho amusement for children.

La Costera You can order anything from lasagne to sushi in Acapulco's myriad restaurants, but without a doubt it's Mexican food that suits this tropical climate best. You'll find plenty of eateries, themed discos and upscale shops lining La Costera, the main boulevard that courses through Acapulco. Neon lights and pulsating music keep the action going all night long.

Water world If you're travelling with children, plan an afternoon at the Children's International Center, known as CICI. Water slides, wave pools and swimming with dolphins make the centre a hit with kids of all ages.

Sol food Don't let the nightclubs pull you away just yet. Sunset on the beach, with the mountains in the background, highlights Acapulco's natural splendour. Off the beaten track, Pie de la Cuesta beach will woo you with its palapa (thatched-roof) seafood dining and sunset views. With such solful scenes, you'll find it hard to say adios to Acapulco.

CANCUN In the Zona Cancun was built on a specially chosen spot at the tip of the Yucatan Peninsula when the Mexican government decided to tap the tourist trade. This is anything but a laid-back seaside town. The Zona Hotelera packs more than 25,000 rooms onto a 14-mile barrier island, meshing Mediterranean and ultramodern design with the geometric lines of Mayan architecture.

Below the sea For years, the coral reef off Isla Mujeres—about 10 miles offshore—suffered from the carelessness of divers and boaters. El Garrafon National Park was established to preserve and restore this section of the Great Mayan Reef, blocking off vulnerable areas and limiting the number of visitors. Go lightly and you'll see the parrot fish, angelfish, damselfish, barracuda and sergeant majors that inhabit this fragile ecosystem.

Smooth landing Flying high under a colourful parasail is just one of the many ways you can indulge in Cancun's sunny tropical weather and blissful beaches. If you like watersports, you'll be in heaven. With ocean temperatures averaging a sensuous 75° F nearly year-round, you could spend your entire holiday sailing, skiing, snorkelling, surfing, fishing, or swimming the turquoise Caribbean waters.

Subterranean pool Beneath the Yucatan landscape lie countless cenotes—natural wells exposed by erosion of the porous limestone. At Cenote Dzintnup, stalactites seem to drip from cavernous ceilings, creating an otherworldly beauty. Take a dip in the clear blue waters and you'll think you're bathing at the centre of the earth. Follow up with a visit to the nearby ruins of Chichen Itza for a memorable excursion from Cancun.

Ancient overlook Cancun may be a relatively new face on the resort map, but its bones are old. Stark reminders that the Maya once ruled this land are scattered among the plush hotels and manicured golf courses. Yamil Lu'um stands as one of the smaller ruins, but its stone walls command expansive vistas of city and ocean from atop Cancun's highest viewpoint.

Groove thang Par-tay! At Cancun's glittering nightclubs and sizzling salsa bars, it's spring break all year long. Let down your hair and join the throngs that barhop sunset to sunrise, from tequila tastings at stylish hotel bars to bikini contests at the most decadent discos. If you're feeling guilty the next morning, you can make amends with an evening of culture at the Ballet Folklorico de Cancun.

COZUMEL Mexico's enchanted isle A sunning iguana is unfazed by boaters in Parque Chankanaab, a natural lagoon on Cozumel, Mexico's largest island. Cozumel means "place of the swallows," an apt name for an island where development is limited, and the interior jungle left to parrots, deer, and armadillos. Grab your own sun on a sandy beach, explore Cozumel's incredible underwater reefs, and even swim with dolphins in an enchanted lagoon like this one.

Beach bounty An irresistible array of tropical fruit and fresh seafood awaits you at the many outdoor eateries along Playa San Francisco, Cozumel's longest beach. Most of the island's best white-sand swimming beaches—and resort hotels—are here on the west coast. The rockier, windswept east coast can be too rough for swimming, but take an afternoon to drive along its scenic cliffs, stopping at the lighthouses at either end.

Reef madness Dramatic coral reefs and unbelievably clear water make Cozumel one of the top diving destinations in the world. Jacques Cousteau brought Cozumel to international attention in 1961 with his TV documentary of the unusually rich Palancar Reef. Even if you don't dive, you can snorkel or look through a glass-bottom boat at sea turtles, rays, coral and so many colourful fish you'll feel you're inside an aquarium.

Tulum Perched dramatically on seaside cliffs, Tulum was the only ancient Mayan city to be built directly on the coast. You can easily visit the ruins on a day trip from Cozumel by taking the ferry to Playa del Carmen and then catching an air-conditioned bus for a 45-minute drive south. Look for toucans in the trees and swim at the pristine beach here or at nearby Xel-Ha, another azure lagoon straight out of a desert island fantasy.

Chairs are waiting... When you've had your fill of diving, shopping and exploring ruins, settle into a comfy beach chair and let your cares melt away. The day-trippers that pour in from the cruise ships are gone by evening and the murmur of waves takes over. Sip one of the local Yucatecan drinks as you watch the sunset in sandy solitude, or join the fun at the bar. Cozumel has something for everyone.

Puerto Vallarta                                        Vallarta sunrise A golden dawn warms the tropical slopes, curving bay, and red-tiled roofs of Puerto Vallarta. This dreamy Pacific paradise scented with bougainvillea enjoys near-perfect weather year-round. While you may go there for the beaches, you'll soon discover that Puerto Vallarta showcases a vibrant arts scene just as compelling.

Bay play The generally calm waters of Banderas Bay invite you to water-ski or ride a yellow "banana raft," a float pulled by a speedboat. Drop your towel on a long sandy beach or rocky secluded cove. The area's most famous curve of sand is Mismaloya Beach, the stunning backdrop for the 1964 Richard Burton/Ava Gardner film, The Night of the Iguana.

Sight of the iguanas If you're not herpetologically challenged, a local boy in the public market will place his pet iguana on your shoulder and snap a photo of you, for a fee. A less touristy place to shop for curios and sip a cold cerveza is Cuale Island, a tranquil oasis in the river that divides Puerto Vallarta.

Old world Pastel-trimmed windows, wrought-iron balconies trailing with bougainvillea, hidden courtyards—historic Puerto Vallarta is a pleasure to explore. Climb the town's narrow cobblestone streets into the hills above and you'll find a world of colonial charm. Many Americans have bought villas here, enchanted by the sweeping views of the blue Pacific.

Avast or aghast Hitch a ride on the Marigalante, a replica of a 15th-century Spanish galleon. This well-known Puerto Vallarta landmark offers sunset and pirate-themed tours. If it's a little too kitschy for your taste, you can hire a water taxi to take you to one of the area's quiet outlying villages or beaches.

Teotihuacan Teotihuacan, the 'City of the Gods', 48km (30 miles) northeast of Mexico City, was built about 2000 years ago. It was the largest pre-Hispanic city in Mexico and, at the height of its power, controlled most of Mexico. Visitors to the site can see the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon, the Citadel with the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the plumed serpent) and the Palace of Quetzalpapalotl (the plumed butterfly), all found in a mile-long stretch called the Calle de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead).

Cuernavaca Cuernavaca,85km (53 miles) from the capital, is built around two large squares. On one stands the Palacio de Cortes (built in 1538), now a museum containing frescoes by Diego Rivera. The Cathedral dates from the 16th century. The town also contains the 18th-century Borda Gardens and the Indian market which sells huaraches (sandals) and leather goods. Articles made of straw are sold too. Xochicalco, 40km (25 miles) south of Cuernavaca, is one of the country's most interesting ceremonial centres, especially noted for its Building of the Plumed Serpent.

Toluca Toluca, 66km (41 miles) from the capital, lies in a valley dominated by the snow-capped Nevado de Toluca, an extinct volcano (its two craters are known as the Sun and the Moon). As well as a fine market, the town has several interesting museums in its Cultural Centre, dedicated to archaeology, folk and modern art. Nearby are the Indian villages of Tenancingo, Metepec and Chiconcuac. About 8km (5 miles) north of Toluca is Calixtlahuaca, an Aztec site of archaeological interest where a circular pyramid is dedicated to the god of wind.

Huatulco One of Mexico’s newest resort areas is at Huatulco, a group of nine interlocking bays set against rainforest-covered mountains. Until the mid-1980s, this area was a sleepy fishing village with no water or electricity. However, a carefully planned expansion program has brought luxury hotels and other amenities to the area, while strict regulations conserve its natural beauty. The beaches include Playa La Entrega (good for snorkelling with beautiful, calm water) and Bahia Tangolunda (where there is an 18-hole golf course). Watersports and other activities are easily arranged as part of Huatulco all inclusive packages that are offered by all of the large travel agencies.

Veracruz The capital, which shares the state’s name, is a lively seaport, with excellent seafood cuisine – the visitor will particularly enjoy carnival time in this easy-going city, which is also well known for its lively nightlife. For centuries, Veracruz was Mexico’s main seaport, and it has seen invasions by the French and the Spanish, as well as numerous attacks by pirates. Its colourful history is reflected in its architecture, the highlights of which date from the 17th and 18th centuries. The main square or zocalo, said to be the oldest in Mexico, features the Palacio Municipal (containing the tourist office) and the Cathedral. Street cafes, hotels and bars add to the lively atmosphere. Nearby beaches include Mocambo and Boca del Rio, 9km (5.6 miles) and 13km (8 miles) to the south respectively. The Isla de Sacrifios, accessible by ferry, also has attractive beaches and is the site of a pre-Hispanic shrine. Veracruz is also known for its exceptional seafood cuisine.

Watersports Mexico has nearly 16,000km (10,000 miles) of coastline and a warm climate. While the Caribbean coast features white-sand beaches and gentle seas, the Pacific coast is characterised by rolling surf and darker sand. The gentlest swimming conditions are offered by the waters of the Yucatan coast (Cancun, Rivera Maya and Cozumel) and the Sea of Cortes (Loreto, Guayamas and La Paz).

Climate Climate varies according to altitude. Coastal areas and lowlands (tierra caliente) are hot and steamy with high humidity, while the central plateau is temperate even in winter. The climate of the inland highlands is mostly mild, but sharp changes in temperature occur between day and night. The cold lands (tierra fria) lie above 2000m (6600ft). Rainfall varies greatly from region to region. Only the Sierra Madre Oriental, the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and the state of Chiapas in the far south receive any appreciable amount of rain during the year, with the wet season running between June and September. All other areas have rainless seasons, while the northern and central areas of the central plateau are dry and arid. There is some snow in the north in winter. The dry season runs from October to May.

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