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Paris Paris cannot be approached without expectations and preconceptions. For some, it represents a city of romance, with Doisneau's lovers clinched in an eternal embrace. For others, the French capital is a sparkling mix of writers and artists or an unhealthy concentration of proud Parisians. While the first visit to the French capital may surprise, it is unlikely to disappoint. If you visit pairs in winter, do not forget to order UGG francais

Chateau de Versailles No sooner had Louis XIV set eyes on his finance minister’s chateau at Vaux-le-Victomte, than he decided to build one bigger and better. The result is one of the three most visited monuments in France. Construction began in 1664 and continued until Louis XIV’s death in 1715. Much of the palace can only be visited with a guide, with the notable exception of the 73m (240ft) Galerie des Glaces (Hall of Mirrors), where the Treaty of Versailles was signed, bringing World War I to an end. It is worth queuing for a guided tour, if only to recapture the ritualistic atmosphere of the reign of the Sun King, whose actions were considered as miraculous as the movements of the sun itself. The honoured elite among the 20,000 courtiers and royal ministers were obliged to relocate to the palace and observed these banal rituals with awe.

Giverny Monet lived in countrified Giverny, 80km (50 miles) northwest of Paris, from 1883 until his death in 1926. The house, in which he painted his last, vast waterlily canvas, is open to the public as Musee Claude Monet. Although the house retains much of its charm, the artist’s studio is now a large and over-commercialised gift shop – Monet is, after all, big business. Although many of the original paintings are now at the Musee d’Orsay, the inspiration behind them remains here: the famed waterlily pond and Japanese footbridges. The museum, 84 rue Claude Monet, is open Tuesday-Sunday 0930-1800 April-October. Admission prices are ˆ5.50 for the house and garden and ˆ4 for the gardens only.

Tour Eiffel The Eiffel Tower literally towers over the Champ de Mars in the smart seventh arrondissement. The top (third) floor offers a sweeping panorama of Paris. From directly underneath there is a fascinating view of the delicate ironwork of Gustave Eiffel, who was commissioned to build the tower for the Exposition Universelle in 1889, the centenary of the French Revolution. Transport: Metro Bir-Hakeim; RER Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel. Opening hours: Daily 0930-2300 (Sep-mid Jun); daily 0900-0000 (mid-Jun-Aug).

Cathedrale de Notre-Dame The stocky Notre-Dame Cathedral, on the Ile-de-la-Cite, could not be more different from the filigree Eiffel Tower. Bishop Maurice de Sully began construction in 1163 to outshine the new abbey at St-Denis; work was completed in 1345. The result is a Gothic masterpiece, with three stunning rose windows. Visitors should be prepared to climb the 387 spiral steps to the top of the 75m (246ft) north tower. The views over the River Seine and the city centre are well worth the effort. There is also a Treasury with various liturgical objects on display.

Sacre-Coeur A long, wide series of steps lead to the snowy-white-domed Sacre-Coeur that dominates Montmartre. A mishmash of styles, the Catholic church was built between 1870 and 1919 to atone for the ‘sins’ of the Commune. The interior is bright with neo-Byzantine mosaics and the domed tower offers a spectacular view over Paris. The crypt contains an interesting collection of religious relics and a slide show on the construction of the Basilica.

Musee National Picasso Paris-based Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) owned most of this collection, the largest worldwide, housed in a 17th-century mansion in the Marais. All phases of his art are represented, with preparatory sketches and paintings covering the Blue Period, Rose Period, Cubism, Classicism, Surrealism and sculptures ranging from a huge plaster head to a small cat. Memorable works include the Blue Period self-portrait Paolo as Harlequin, the surreal Nude in an Armchair and poignant paintings of Marie-Therese. Photographs are displayed alongside the works they inspired and African masks with Picasso’s ‘primitive’ wood carvings. There is also a glimpse of the artist’s personal taste in paintings, with his Matisse and Cezanne paintings displayed.

Musee d’Orsay The strength of this large museum, housed in a former train station by the River Seine, lies in its collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art. The collection, covering the decisive 1848-1914 period, is arranged chronologically, beginning on the ground floor, jumping to the third, then descending to the middle level. Among the most famous works are Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’Herbe, rejected from the Salon of 1863, five of Monet’s paintings of Rouen Cathedral and the recently acquired realist work, L’Origine du Monde by Gustave Courbet, whose graphic depiction of the female sex continues to shock.

Centre Georges Pompidou Considered outrageous in 1977, the Pompidou Centre, designed by Piano and Rogers, has become part of the Parisian landscape, primary coloured tubes and all. Although not yet twenty-five years old, the building has already been revamped and extended to cope with the huge numbers visiting its expanding collection of contemporary art and its multimedia library. It re-opened on the first day of the new millennium, the main focus being the 20th-century collection of the Musee National d'Art Moderne (MNAM).

Jardin du Luxembourg This garden, part formal, part jardin a l’anglaise, were created for Marie de Medicis, Henry IV’s widow, along with the Palais de Luxembourg (which now houses the French Senate). Now it is a favoured spot for a Sunday stroll, game of tennis, chess or boules, pony ride or yacht trip on the lake.

City of Light If Gustave Eiffel only knew how beloved his once-derided "temporary" tower is today—no other icon says Paris the way this one does. You'll catch unexpected views of the Tour Eiffel from all over the city as you shop grand boulevards, cruise the Seine, sip kir at sidewalk cafes, or amble beneath this statue of musical nymphs. Let the City of Light rekindle your passion for the finer things in life.

Timeless art Centuries seem to meld at the Louvre, the grande dame of French—and world—art museums. Here in this huge former palace, with its controversial glass pyramid entry, you can find everything from Egyptian antiquities to 19th-century paintings. The most famous resident? The Mona Lisa, of course.

Moveable feast Tantalising is the word for all foods French. Pick up a crusty baguette, a creamy, well-ripened Camembert, a fresh fruit tarte or two, and you're all set for a classic French picnic. And don't forget the sauvignon blanc. If you're in the mood for something hot, fast, and delicious, order a sweet or savoury crepe from a sidewalk creperie.

Seine sights A pont-framed view of Notre-Dame is just one of the attractions of a romantic stroll along the Seine River. Wander among the 17th-century stone houses on quiet Ile St-Louis, then plunge into the throngs on the Left Bank (Rive Gauche). Tired of walking? Catch the "boat bus" that runs between Notre-Dame and the Eiffel Tower for a riverside view of Paris.

Station masters Works of art, not train schedules, now adorn the grand hall of this former railway station. The beautiful Orsay station was saved from the wrecking ball in the 1980s and transformed into the Musee d'Orsay. The museum contains one of the most important collections of Impressionist paintings in the world.

Gargoyle Gothic Quasimodo still lurks in spirit on the upper reaches of Notre-Dame. Grimacing gargoyles guard this 800-year-old cathedral, their open mouths originally gutter spouts. Climb to the top—almost 400 steps—for a close encounter with these beasts and a fearsome view of metropolitan Paris.

Passes The Carte Musees et Monuments pass allows free unlimited access to more than 70 museums and monuments in the Paris region. The pass is for sale (ˆ23 for one day, ˆ44 for three days, ˆ62 for five days) from the Central Tourist Office, participating museums and monuments, the main metro stations and FNAC stores. The pass allows visitors to bypass queues but does not provide free admission to special or temporary exhibitions.

Culture The French government takes art and culture very seriously, pumping money into the arts, supporting French cinema against Hollywood imports, and embarking on grandiose grands travaux, such as the new Bibliotheque Nationale de France. The Opera Bastille opened in 1989 on the bicentennial of Bastille Day but the merit of its architecture and the quality of its productions have since been questioned.

Music The Paris Opera performs ballet and opera at the Opera Garnier, place de l’Opera, 9th, and Opera Bastille, place de la Bastille, 12th. Tickets cost ˆ29-109). Large opera productions are also performed at the Theatre Musical de Paris. The varied programme at the Cite de la Musique at La Villette is strongest in contemporary music and home to the internationally renowned Ensemble Intercontemporain, but also features ancient music, jazz, chansons and world music. It has two important venues: the Conservatoire National de Musique, 209 avenue Jean Jaures, 19th, and the Salle des Concerts, 221 avenue Jean Jaures, 19th. Big names in French contemporary and experimental classical music to listen out for are Pierre Boulez, Pascal Dusapin and Luc Ferrarie.

Theatre The Comedie Francaise, 1 place de Colette, 1st, is the national theatre, renowned for its production of the classics. Theatre National de la Colline, 15 rue Malte-Brun, 20th, plays contemporary French drama. New talent is sought out at fringe theatres such as Guichet-Montparnasse, 15 rue du Maine, 14th. Peter Brook is based at the Bouffes du Nord, 37 bis boulevard de la Chapelle, 10th. The Odeon, 1 place de l'Odeon, 6th, hosts foreign-language productions but is currently closed for renovations.

Shopping The Parisian ideal is elegant rather than funky. Trends may come and go but Paris is always at the forefront and there are few cities where you can find so many top-quality designers. These include some British designers – John Galliano at Dior, Julian McDonald at Givenchy and McDonald’s precedessor Alexander McQueen, who recently signed an ‘own label’ deal with Gucci – as well as that ever-controversial Frenchman, Jean-Paul Gaultier, with his own store near Bastille. The exclusive designer shops are in the 8th, enclosed in the golden triangle formed by avenue des Champs-Elysees, avenue Montaigne and rue Francois 1er and along rue du Faubourg St-Honore. A less rarefied but typically Parisian shopping experience is to be had at the main department stores on boulevard Haussmann, 8th – Les Galeries Lafayette with its huge coloured dome and Au Printemps. Metro Temple or Republique take the bargain shopper to the cheapest department store in the city, Tati, 172 rue du Temple, 3rd . Cut-price designer gear can be snapped up at the Mouton a Cinq Pattes, 8 rue St-Placide, 6th. The sales sweep through Paris in January and July. The Carrousel du Louvre, under the glass pyramid in the Louvre courtyard, is a good place for tasteful gifts but shoppers determined to take home plastic Eiffel Towers should head for rue de Rivoli, home to tourist kitsch.

Sport Parisians generally prefer to watch sport rather than participate, although the annual Paris Marathon in April is an exception. The major spectator event, however, takes place in late July when swarms of cyclists hurl down avenue des Champs-Elysees, which is lined with crowds, in the final stages of the Tour de France. The purpose-built Stade de France, rue Francis de Pressense in St-Denis, 16th, has become the venue for international football matches and rugby Six Nations’ Cup matches. Meanwhile, domestic football matches take place at the Parc des Princes, 86 rue Regnault, 13th, the base for the first-division Paris football team Paris-SG (St-Germain) and Le Racing rugby team. The sports venue for everything from ballroom dancing to judo is the Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy (POPB), 8 boulevard Bercy, 12th. The major horseracing events – the Prix de la Republique and the Grand Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe – take place in October in the Bois de Boulogne. L’Officiel des Spectacles details sports events and Le Guide du Sport a Paris, available at tourist offices and town halls, lists sports facilities. Allo Sports, 25 boulevard Bourdon, 4th, offers information on municipal facilities.

Nightlife When planning an evening out in Paris, it is more important to decide where to go than what to do. The Champs-Elysees and Trocadero areas are full of tourists and overpriced nightspots, but if wishing to impress, may be worth considering. Pigalle is the seedy sex centre of Paris but home to some good music venues and the Moulin Rouge cabaret, 82 boulevard Clichy, 18th, where the cancan is still performed. Montmartre is heaving in summer but the views over Paris from Sacre-Coeur are unbeatable. Bastille is buzzing with bars and clubs but is a bit too hectic for some. The best area for an evening’s cafe-hopping is the Marais district (also the centre of the gay scene), closely followed by the increasingly fashionable Oberkampf, which suits a younger crowd. The minimum legal age for drinking alcohol (beer and wine) is 16 years of age, rising to 18 years for stronger drinks and spirits. Bars are usually licensed until 0100 but it does vary according to the individual venue and area. Pariscope is one of the best sources of information for nightlife listings.

Bars Most cafes in Paris are considered bars as well – by virtue of their long opening hours and the fact that in the same place you might have a coffee you could also have a beer. There are, however, a number of specifically evening venues which are listed below. With the exception of Anglo/Irish bars, beers on tap (biere a la pression) are normally served as a demi (25cl). The super-trendy Le Buddha Bar, 8 bis rue Boissy d’Anglas, 8th, so-called because of the giant kitsch Buddha, which defines the decor of this underground beauty parade, continues to be the place to be seen. Another bar of beauties, popular with the wealthy business community, is Barfly, 49-51 avenue George V, 8th, which serves a variety of (expensive) cocktails and sushi. The crowd is more laid-back at L’Armagnac, 104 rue de Charonne, 11th, an ideal cafe-restaurant for a cool down after a good night out in the Bastille district. The first bar to make Oberkampf a popular new nightspot was Cafe Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf, 11th. It is still popular with a young artistic crowd. The DJ plays funk and house Tuesday to Saturday. Le Mecano Bar, 99 rue Oberkampf, 11th, so called because of its tool-box decor, is typically Parisian. There is a cluster of cafe/bars around the Centre Pompidou. The most famed is the large Cafe Beaubourg, 43 rue St-Merri, 4th, an extremely popular, central meeting place. Anglophone ex-pats find safety in numbers at the Cafe Oz, 184 rue St-Jacques, 5th, which serves a good range of draught and bottled beers or The Frog & Rosbif, 116 rue St-Denis, 2nd, a traditional British pub.

Clubs Techno, house, garage and latino are the popular sounds and, to a lesser extent, hip hop, trip hop and drum’n’bass. Bouncers frequently turn potential punters away and many of the smarter clubs are (or claim to be) private. There is no sure way of gaining admission, although being foreign, dressed identically to everyone inside, accompanied by a regular or simply beautiful helps. Admission prices (usually around ˆ15-20) often include one free drink. Clubs open at about 2300 and tend not to close until dawn; it is coolest to arrive around 0300, or at least after midnight. Top DJs play house tunes at Le Queen, 102 avenue des Champs-Elysees, 8th, a gay club still considered the best club in Paris. Thursday and Saturday is gay only, with drag queens in profusion; Monday is Disco Inferno – time to get the flares out. Le Divan du Monde, located in Pigalle at 75 rue des Martyrs, 18th, once hosted Toulouse Lautrec but now draws a crowd that changes radically according to the evening’s programme – Brazilian, tango, indie, rock, house and hip hop nights alternate with top French and international DJs. Le Saint, 7 rue St-Severin, 5th, which plays disco, house and salsa, is inexpensive and relaxed. At the other extreme is Les Bains, 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbe, 3rd, a former Turkish bathhouse transformed into the most pretentious of clubs.

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